In a previous post we showed some of the typical points of measurement used by the tailored clothing industry. While we attempt to create sizing options based on extensive studies of anthropometric data, the reality is that no two bodies are alike and sometimes alterations are necessary to make a ready-made garment fit better.
In the next series of posts we will show what allowances have been built in to every Hart Schaffner Marx suit to allow for these alterations. The first is the sleeve length.
Our head technical designer Jeffery Diduch is a truly impressive tailor. On his blog Made By Hand, Mr. Diduch discusses what he calls “the great sartorial debate,” inspecting bespoke and made to measure suits, sometimes dissecting them and sometimes going into detailed instructions on how to complete certain stitches.
Rob Ventura, manager of the Chicago White Sox, and Jeffery doing a team fitting for their Hart Schaffner Marx suits.
Mr. Diduch was “discovered” for his tailoring skills while making a suit for himself to wear for a meeting, as we learned on a feature interview with him on the Gentleman’s Gazette.
GG: What are the most important aspects in a suit for you? Shoulders, pattern, handwork…?
JD: Fit. Above everything else, fit. An inexpensive suit that fits well will always look better than a very expensive one that doesn’t fit; if the suit doesn’t fit, no amount of handwork will make it look right. Continue reading →